TIARA – QUEEN OF JEWELS, THE JEWEL OF QUEENS
In 2008-2009, goldsmith Bodil Binner and jewellery writer Nina Hald had the pleasure of co-arranging and co-curating an exhibition entitled “Tiara – Queen of Jewels, the Jewel of Queens”, shown at the Amalienborg Museum (the Royal Residence Museum) during the spring and summer of 2009. Generous loans of royal tiaras and other hair ornaments provided an impression of the development of jewellery for the hair during the past 150 years, while works by present-day goldsmiths illustrated trends of today.
Today, the word “tiara” is loosely used to describe most types of feminine hair ornaments – including diadems, wreaths, coronets, garlands and chaplets. A diadem or coronet is smaller and more modest – a tiara is larger and usually set with bigger gemstones and pearls. Earlier, the tiara was a symbol of wealth and rank, power and status. In antiquity, flower-wreaths were part of fertility rituals. The Romans took over the tradition from the Greeks, and the laurel wreath became a symbol of victory. After the spread of Christianity throughout Europe the tiara became associated with heathens and was not approved of by the Church – with the exception of its use at weddings and as one of the distinguishing symbols of the Pope.
After living a shadowy existence during several centuries the tiara experienced a resounding comeback at the end of the 18th century in the context of Neo-Classicism. At the end of the 19th century more tiaras than ever before were produced for use at royal courts – a development that continued until the First World War. In societal terms and in actual social practice the tiara had become outdated by the end of the 1920s. It was not until the 1980s that it experienced a kind of revival in wider, more popular circles as an ironic post-punk object.
Today tiaras may be worn by anyone – chosen because of their symbolic and monetary value, their style and their striking, flattering elegance. At balls, banquets and other special occasions in royal circles the tiara still plays a role as the queen of jewels and as the jewel of queens.
The tiara Megaira – made of oxidized silver and 12.5 carat green and yellowish sapphires and to feathers. Named after the Greek goddess of destiny, Megaira, the envious – and her colour: Green. The tiara attracts the envious look of other women, but the wearer of it can always hide behind the shades of the sunglasses – the tiara of the 21st century. 2009
The tiara and hairpins entitled ”Celeste” – made of 18 karat fair trade gold set with 0.595 carat pink brilliants and ten Fiji cultured pearls with diameter sizes 9-13,5 mm. Inspired by celestial bodies such as stars and planets. 2008.